The fashion world’s new sense of positivity was pleasantly apparent during London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021 collections. Check out THEYE MAGAZINE’s listings of the best and most cheerful British fashion trends for this new season.
Big and Bold Florals
British virtual runways and digital presentations were brimming with large florals this Autumn season, embracing not only the delicate emotions from past seasons but also celebrating the coming hope. Erdem’s new ready-to-wear collection focuses on ballet inspired silhouettes with a modern undone twist combining the impromptu rehearsal attire with the elegant performance costume. Contemporary digitally enlarged floral patterns completed not only the storyline but also added an additional layer of intrigue and drama. Duro Olowu’s recent optimistic RTW collection follows this same notion, by aiming attention at empathy and dressing for your feelings with a bold floral touch. Similarly, Eudon Choi’s cheerful designs this season, featured abstract florals in a comforting yet chic way.
Another major uplifting trend to take note of this coming season was colour blocking with bright and joyful colours. Roksanda’s poetic fashion film presented various colour blocking examples from oversized suits in mint green, white, and mustard to navy and orange dresses. The design duo Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers of Colville also happily engaged in blissful and polychromatic colour blocking throughout their Autumn/Winter RTW collection. Whilst Roland Mouret let himself be inspired by powerful and independent women like Gloria Steinem and Dorothy Pitman Hughes in creating bold colour blocked designs for all the brave and daring women of today. Roland Mouret will also now come in a larger size range than he has ever released before, giving women both more power and more colours in their wardrobes.
Tulle may have a long and intimidating history of bridal wear and 1980’s pop-stars but that does not mean you should avoid it or worse fear it. A tulle gown or skirt can add interesting texture to any look. Tulle can also just as easily be dressed down as it can elevate a look entirely. Molly Goddard’s Autumn/Winter RTW collection proved just how cool tulle can be paired with a lime green and cream colour blocked sweater and a dark red lip. London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu on the other hand, showed the more romantic and whimsical side of tulle. Bora Aksu’s tulle filled virtual runway communicated the importance of uncovering something positive and holding onto that lightness when surrounded by gloom and difficult times, giving exactly the type of visual pep talk we require before facing yet another possible quarantine.
Velvet is a true Autumn/Winter weather classic. This elegant fabric is not only super glamorous but also especially comforting making it the perfect textile to utilize during transitioning from quarantine sweatpants surrealness to post-pandemic elegance.
Huishan Zhang velvet designs centered around a modern minimal 1990’s aesthetic with both a girly and edgy sassy side. Key standout styles were the steel-grey and powder-pink velvet dresses that featured elegant ruching and fairytale princess worthy oversized puffed sleeves made contemporary. Federica Cavenati and Marco Capaldo of 16 Arlington put a substantial focus on both velvet and a more relaxed fit. This led to creating the ultimate evening dress; an elegant gown that is both so comfortable and so fabulous that you do not want to take it off.
“And now, I’m just trying to change the world, one sequin at a time” – Lady Gaga
London based fashion designers and creative directors this season were in complete agreement with Lady Gaga. Brightly coloured sequin dresses, suits, and jumpsuits ruled digital runways and fashion films alike. Halpern’s newest RTW garments fully embraced the disco decade with a collection made up of almost entirely of sequin-only ensembles, leading us to nearly start dancing too. British-Nigerian brand Tokyo James, showed not only exceptional traditional Saville Row tailoring skills but also the very bright future possibilities post pandemic, with of course sequins. Osman took it one step further, creating stunning sequined fashion pieces, like an outstanding hot pink mutton-sleeved flowing long dress with a welcome theme of diversity, unity, and ethical business practices.
By Marie-Louise Bloch